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vada. But before that, he worked as a boat pilot on
the Mississippi. Like many boys in the sleepy village
of Hannibal, Missouri, where Twain’s family moved
when he was four, he dreamt of becoming a steam-
boat man. He says:
When I was a boy, there was but one permanent ambition
among my comrades in our village on the west bank of the
Mississippi River. That was, to be a steamboatman. We
had transient ambitions of other sorts, but they were only
transient. When a circus came and went, it left us all burn-
ing to become clowns; the first negro minstrel show that
came to our section left us all suffering to try that kind of
life; now and then we had a hope that if we lived and were
good, God would permit us to be pirates. These ambitions
faded out, each in its turn; but the ambition to be a steam-
boatman always remained.
Life in Hannibal
The river and steamboats that stopped in Hannibal
twice a day (one on its way upriver from St. Louis,
and the other on its way downriver from Keokuk)
were just about the only attractions in the town. The
memory of nearly empty streets in the early morn-
ing sun stayed fresh in Twain’s mind all his life: store
clerks drowsing in front of their shops; a family of pigs
wandering down the sidewalk; the town drunkard
sleeping in the shadows as the waters of the mighty
Mississippi flowed past.
Presently a film of dark smoke appears above one of those
remote ‘points;’ instantly a negro drayman, famous for his
quick eye and prodigious voice, lifts up the cry, ‘S-t-e-a-m-
boat a-comin’!’ and the scene changes! The town drunkard
stirs, the clerks wake up, a furious clatter of drays follows,
every house and store pours out a human contribution,
and all in a twinkling the dead town is alive and moving.
The Advantages of Being a Pilot
The best job on a steamboat was that of a pilot. A
good salary - from one hundred and fifty to two hun-
dred and fifty dollars a month - was not the job’s only
incentive. Being a pilot also offered a great deal of
independence. Mark Twain explains this in the chap-
ter “Rank and Dignity of Piloting” in Life on the Mis-
sissippi:
[...] a pilot, in those days, was the only unfettered and
entirely independent human being that lived in the earth.
Kings are but the hampered servants of parliament and
In this photo provided by the Louisiana State Museum, the oil on canvas painting, circa 1890, titled “Natchez VII on the Mississippi
River by Moonlight,” by artist August Norieri, is seen on exhibit at the Cabildo in New Orleans. (photo AP Images)