
This contamination will cause the sensor to produce a lower reading to the ECM
(Engine Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer). The most common symptom of this
contamination is a hesitation or a time-lag in engine responce that is felt after the
accelerator pedal is depressed. As stated in the list at the beginning of this article, other
symptoms may include but are not limited to: higher tailpipe emissions and diagnostic
codes that may illuminate the "Check Engine" light.
If cleaning the MAF Sensor, use an electronics spray cleaner to do it with. This in itself
may solve your problem. Don't use carb or brake clean spray. These solvents can
damage the sensor. Also, don't attempt to physically clean the sensor with anything.
Check your local autopart store, they will have MAF Sensor cleaning spray.
After having checked for contamination the other things that you must check for (and
eliminate if present) are:
1. That the engine does not have any vacuum leaks.
2. That there are no ignition system misfires. A misfire condition will skew
the results of the test you'll perform here.
If the above conditions exist, repairing them first will more than likely solve your
vehicle's drive-ability issue without having to test the MAF Sensor, if not continue with
the MAF Test in this article.
THE MAF TEST
OK, you're gonna' start by checking the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor basics. These
are 12 Volts and Battery ground to the MAF Sensor. After that, we'll test the actual
performance of the MAF Signal as the engine is running. Use a digital multimeter for all
tests where a multimeter is called for.
The MAF sensor produces an analog voltage signal. At idle with the engine at its normal
operating temperature, the MAF sensor produces a signal of 1.0 volts to 1.7 volts. The
MAF Sensor's operating voltage range is from .0 to 5 volts.
The MAF Signal's voltage is directly related to amount of air the engine is breathing.
Common sense tells us that the engine will breathe in more air at 2500 RPMs than at an
idle of 900 RPMs.
So keeping this in mind, the Voltage value on the multimeter will be greater at 2500
RPMs than at 900 RPMs
Now, when testing this voltage signal, the important thing to know is not an actual volts
number at a specific RPM, but to look for crazy and extreme fluctuations in the voltage
signal that do not correspond to the actual air intake (RPM's) of the engine. For
example: If at Idle the voltage reading starts to spike up and down without you
accelerating the engine.
In the TEST 3 section of this article, I'll show how you'll use a base voltage reading at
idle from the MAF Sensor that will help you to confirm that the MAF Sensor is bad or
not.